How to get perfect, clump-free lashes

Here is an example of a look I created where the lashes looked well defined and clump free!

I get asked so many times how to get natural lashes to curl and look long and full, So here are some of my secrets to getting this effect without false lashes!

Step One- Using eye makeup remover and cotton pads remove any oils and makeup remains from your lashes.Then with a clean mascara wand, brush the lashes to ensure there is no dust/dirt particles, and the lashes are all straight and individual not clumped together.

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Step Two- I always use my tweezerman eyelash curlers because it has a thick silicone pad for comfort. The best way to get the lashes to lift is starting close to the lash line. Position the lashes in the curler and gently apply pressure, taking special care not to nip the skin.  Then when you have all the lashes, press down for a few seconds, and pulse a few times to help tease them upwards. Then release and do the same at the end of the lashes as this will also help curl the tip.

Step Three- I always think that any good product deserves a good base to sit on, which is why I swear by using a lash primer before applying the mascara. This adds depth as it builds an extra layer on the lashes creating a fuller lash. It extends the wear of the mascara, helping it stay in place and also conditions the lashes adding much needed nourishment to them. Allow to dry for 20 seconds before applying the mascara. I highly recommend Urban Decays Eyelash Primer Potion!

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Step Four- There are so many mascaras formulas out there, that its really hard to know which one is the best. To be honest, I would first think about what you want it for. If its for a wedding, special occasion,holiday or all day then you want a waterproof one. If its for a photo-shoot or a or night out, then I would go for a volumizing mascara. Wiggle the brush back and forth as you move the brush upward.

Your goal is to apply mascara on to all the lashes even the hard to reach ones at the edges. Use the tip of the brush for the hard to reach places. Apply mascara to the upper lashes first and then using the tip of the brush apply to the lower lashes.

*I always use Royal Effem H20 100% waterproof mascara on my brides as its free from parabens and animal derivatives  It contains a polymer with high resistance to water which also has an incredible volume effect.*

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Step Five- At this stage you should have thicker, fuller lashes. But to complete this look and ensure that the mascara is coated from the roots, you need to add a second coat using a lash comb. I like to use tweeserman metal comb and coat the end in mascara. Unlike the plastic comb, the metal one can easily comb all the clumps out of the lashes from root to tip, plus giving extra coverage of mascara. However, be very careful that you don’t poke your eyelids! This too me is one of my best tools and get fantastic results every time.

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I hope this has helped give you some valuable tips to achieve professional looking lashes at home.

Ruth xx

What Seasons colours are you?

With colour trends and styles, constantly changing,  it can be be difficult to find a look/colour that we feel really suits our complexion. 

Figuring out what seasonal colour you fit into, doesn't have to be confusing and complicated. There are several simple things you can check and ask yourself.

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1. Ask yourself, what is your dominant features?

Look at yourself in a mirror in ambient light and concentrate your your features i.e, the colour of your eyes and hair.

Now choose from one of the categories bellow which you think you come under.

Deep/dark

Hair - Dark brown, black,dark auburn and chestnut brown,

Eyes - Black, dark brown, dark auburn, dark green, dark hazel, dark blue

Light

Hair - Light to medium ash, golden brown, light/soft auburn,golden blond, white

Eyes - Light to medium blue or green, light hazel

Neutral/soft

Hair - Mousy brown, soft auburn, medium to deep ash brown, golden or strawberry blond, light grey hair

Eyes - Brown to hazel, blue grey, clear blue or a mix of colours

Clear

Hair - Black, black-brown, bright golden, deep blond, red hair, golden white blonde

Eyes - Clear blue or green, turquoise blue or green, sparkly amber

2. Skin Undertone

Your skin’s surface tone is the color that you can see on the surface of your skin, often described as light, medium, tan, deep, and so on.

But it is your skin’s undertone (the color underneath the surface) which determines which season you fall in.

You can have the same skin color as someone, but a different undertone.

The way to test what your undertone is with two pieces of fabric one which is cool(silver, colours with blue and cold tones in) and one which is warm(gold, colours with yellow and warm tones in)

Hold these fabrics up against your face to see which one reflects a healthy(not dull) glow in your skin.

If you find that both fabrics light up your face, this means that you are lucky and suit both warms and cool colours!

3. What season do you come under?

Winter and Summer colors are cool.

Autumn and Spring colors are warm.

Here is the results:-

Spring - Light Warm, Clear Warm     

Recommended colours for light warm - Bright coral, camel, light moss

Recommended colours for clear warm - Teal blue, warm pink & true green

                                                                        

Summer - Light Cool, Soft Cool

Recommended colours light cool- Deep rose, cocoa,aqua green

Recommended coloursfor soft cool - blue green, soft fuchsia & burgundy

 

Autumn - Deep Warm, Soft Warm

Recommended coloursfor deep warm- Salmon pink, peach & terracotta

Recommended coloursfor soft warm - olive green, salmon pink & mahogany

 

Winter - Deep Cool, Clear Cool

Recommended colours for deep cool -  Fushia, icy pink & burgundy        

Recommended colours for clear cool - Royal blue, magenta, pine green


I have created a seasonal colour checker below to make it easier to find your colour.

How to Rock a Red Lip

With the holiday seasons approaching, everyone wants to know how to rock the red lip. However, many people don’t feel comfortable wearing them. So I thought I would share with you some greattips and tricks on how to wear red lips and look simply striking and stand out from the crowd.

 

My rule of thumb is if you over play your lips then you under play your eyes. With red lips, opt for a soft beige/brown eyeshadow, a couple of coats of mascara and a small dab of the red lipstick on the apples of the cheek(blended up and out)  Accessorize with some flashes of red to compliment your lipstick, and either wear your hair down loosely to soften the look or a smart twist in the hair for a more classic demure effect.

 

Different styles

Classic look - Matt red lipstick

Modern chick look -  Add gloss to the lipstick

Soft English rose - Red lip stain with for an added subtle wash of colour with a longer lasting matt finish

Youthful glow- Subtle pop of colour with mixing a lip balm and red lipstick

Evening Party Lips -Add a metallic gold lipstick to the center of the lips to add a sparkly finish that creates the illusion of a fuller, more dramatic pout. (Make Up For Ever Rouge Artist Intense line has great metallic lipsticks.

Easy peasy way to apply your lipstick

Prep your lips
Gently rub some sugar scrub over your lips to remove any flakiness and also plumbs up the lips too!  Finish off by moisturizing to soften and hydrate the skin.

Conceal and neutralize the lips
Using a concealer and your index finger, apply a small amount around the outer edge and blend into the skin and onto the lip line. This will add a greater contrast between your lipstick and the natural in your skin.

Line the lips
Lining lips is key for any lipstick shade. You don’t need to have a shade for every lipstick you own maybe just the bolder shades of the bunch. Trace the lip line and slightly fill in, this will stain the lips so even if the lipstick fades, you still have a pigment of colour and also stops the lipstick from bleeding. Once you’ve done that you’re ready for the next step

Apply your lipstick
 You can opt to apply either straight from the lipstick or alternatively use a lip brush. Starting at the bottom, apply the colour from the middle out. Then do the same on the top. Do not worry too much about applying this to the edge at this point.

Blot
Grab a tissue, fold it in half and blot the excess lipstick off!

Re-apply your lipstick
Now re apply your lipstick, this time without blotting.

Line the lips for more precision
Now select a red lip liner to match your lipstick and line the lips by starting at the cupids bow to corners then bottom lips working from the middle to corner. I find doing this protects the lipstick longer and it gives you a sharper precise edge.

Powder
Grab a piece of tissue and separate so it’s only one layer and place over your lips. Use a loose translucent powder and dust over the tissue gently to lock everything into place.

Refreshing your lipstick later on will keep the look fresh and vibrant.

 

Ruth xx

 

Greek Goddess Inspired Shoot at the Priory Bay

Greek Mythology was a theme I decided to go with as It is a trend used on the catwalk this summer 2014.Lots of gold,whites and cream

APHRODITE GREEK GODDESS OF LOVE AND BEAUTY

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The Greek goddess Aphrodite was a big inspiration for this shoot. She rises from the foam of the waves of the sea, enchanting anyone who sees her and inciting feelings of love and lust wherever she goes.

So I thought no better place to have this shoot than the Priory Bay, renowned for its natural beauty on the Isle of Wight.

Inspiration Board

Here is a collection of the ideas that I pieced together, along with my finished makeup design sheet that I sketched out.

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I managed to find an amazing hair stylist Gemma Gorman who had over 15 years experience in this field and has trained with Charles Worthington. I knew instantly that she was the right stylist for the job, as soon as I briefed her, she got to work drafting out a look which would marry perfectly with the whole overall look and style I was going for. Gemma and I worked closely with the model to make sure her skin and hair was in good condition for the day of the shoot.

The makeup style I finished with consisted of a bronzed complexion, dramatic eyes and subtle lips, but incorporating the tones in the skin, the season and the style.

The photographer Simon Hawkins, captured this late afternoon when the sun was softer and more defused, to enhance and capture the warm tones in the model.

Here is the finished pictures, hope you enjoy looking at these as much as we enjoyed capturing them!

Ruth xx

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Photography - Simon Hawkins

Makeup - Ruth Hawkins

Hair - Gemma Gorman

Model - Sophie Scott